Palestinian Dress, An Extremely Rare Sleeveless Coat Dress (Jillayeh), Ramallah, Old Palestine-The Ottoman Period, Late 19th Century.

Identification Number: 508
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Description

This dress (thobe) has no sleeves (sleeveless) and generally shorter than normal and to the best of our knowledge there is no other similar survival.

The embroidery on this robe is particularly fine and the colour scheme used is unusual for it’s being used on predominantly indigo blue grounds.

The main fabric of the dress is made with hand woven linen of indigo-blue with embroidery in cross-stitch, also the extra attention used in embroidering this dress as if its been embroidered with double-sided cross-stiches inside out in orangey-red silk, with other details in yellow, white, blue, pink and mauve.

The main and predominant pattern used in the decoration of this dress is the tall palm patterns, the eight-pointed star, probably the horseshoe (Hadweh) motif, geometrical designs, the zigzag pattern and the large and bold crosses.

The use of large crosses pattern is a clear indication of the influence of the Christian heritage on the Art of embroidery in the holy lands.

For further discussions please see the similar previous lot identification number 507.

Condition:- Excellent.

Dimensions:

114 cm height.
42 cm width of the chest.

References:-

For another almost identical Ramallah Dress with an open front and other Palestinian Embroideries Palestinian Costumes, by Shelagh Weir, Published For The Trustees Of The British Museum, By British Museum Publications, 1989, ISBN: 0-7141-1597-5. Please see similar lots catalogued on page 89.
For various types of pants or (sirwal or elbas), please see illustrations on pages 146 & 147.

For another almost identical Ramallah Dress with an open front and other Palestinian Embroideries please see the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York –USA.
Lot Accession No. C.I43.64.10a, b

For another similar Ramallah Dress with an open front and other Palestinian Embroideries please see the collection of Birmingham Museums & Art Gallery
Birmingham City-UK.

For another similar Ramallah Dress with an open front and other Palestinian Embroideries please see the Collection of the Palestinian heritage Foundation, NJ 07007-0531, USA.

For various Palestinian ornamentations used in the embroidery including the Ramallah area, please see pages 92-142 Appendix III in the following reference book.
The Art of Palestinian Embroidery by Leila El Khalidi, British Library, 1999, ISBN 0 86356 038 5 (PBK), Saqi Books, London UK.